Using an eSIM in Luxor

What Luxor is like on a phone

Luxor is far smaller than Cairo, and people arrive on very different clocks. Some come for two or three temple days, some join or leave a Nile cruise here, and a good number stay a single night to be in a balloon basket before sunrise. The town is walkable and cars are easy to find, so the phone gets used for ticket times, for translating signage and for photographs more than for finding your way. On the east bank the line is comfortable throughout; the real difference is what happens once you cross the river and once you go underground, and those are two separate stories from the town.

À l'atterrissage

Luxor (LXR) is a small airport with a single hall, and the walk from aircraft to exit is short. Switch the eSIM line on before the doors open so you can message your hotel or your boat while you are still inside. The road into town is short and straightforward, and most cars end up on the corniche along the river, where the hotels and the mooring points are. If you are staying on the west bank you will either take one of the ferries from the middle of town or go round by the bridge to the south, so ask your accommodation in advance which way they expect you and whether anyone is meeting you at the landing. The crossing itself stays connected — the river is not wide here and there is a town on each side.

Où la couverture change

The corniche, the market streets and the temple enclosures on the east bank are open ground in the middle of a town, and they behave accordingly. Cross over and the west bank villages and farmland are still usable, but as the road climbs into the bare rock of the royal valleys it thins, and inside the tombs themselves there is nothing — plan on being out of contact for as long as you are down there. The desert roads running north and south between the river towns have genuinely quiet stretches between settlements. On a boat away from town the line rises and falls with how close the bank is and whether anyone lives on it. Load maps, tickets and the list of places you plan to visit before you set out in the morning.

What a day here costs in data

A day here usually lands around 1–1.5GB, which is modest: you are walking a small area and ordering cars far less often than in a capital. What actually costs is pictures and video, because temples and painted tomb walls make people shoot several times more than an ordinary day does. Balloon mornings show this most clearly, since a long clip from the air is much bigger than it feels while you are filming it. Translation earns its keep when you are reading signage or sorting out a fare with a driver or a boatman. The time gap home is several hours, so if you want a long call, do it back at the hotel where the Wi-Fi can carry part of the load.

Districts travellers ask about

• The corniche and Luxor Temple — Hotels, mooring points and the temple in the middle of town sit in one strip, usable in daylight and again when the floodlights come on at night. A good place to check a ticket or a boat time before you set off anywhere.
• Karnak at the north end of town — A very large open enclosure, so the line reaches across it without trouble — the problem is the scale, not the signal. Agree on a recognisable column or gateway as a meeting point before your group spreads out.
• The west bank villages — The villages and small guesthouses among the fields work normally, and it weakens steadily as you climb towards the cliffs. If you are hiring a bicycle or a scooter to get around on your own, save the map area before you cross the river, not after.
• The souq lanes behind the waterfront — Narrow lanes with cloth stretched overhead for shade, which is enough to make your position drift. Use a temple gate or a mosque as your reference point, and keep a firm grip on the phone where the lane is busy, as you would in any crowded market.

Day trips out of the city

• Dendera and Abydos to the north — A long driving day north along the river, alternating between small towns and empty ground, so service comes in patches. Inside the roofed halls and the rooftop chapels it goes noticeably quiet. Save the addresses and the time you agreed with your driver to the device before you set off.
• Edfu and Kom Ombo to the south — Both sit on the river with a town around them, so they are fine once you arrive; the road between alternates between farmland and open ground and drops briefly along the way. If you are arriving by boat rather than by car, treat the stretches out on the water as uncertain rather than assuming you can be reached.
• A dawn balloon over the west bank — You leave before first light and cross the river to the launch field, which is open ground and usually still connected. Once you are up, do not count on streaming live; shoot it, then upload when you are back at the hotel. Take the battery seriously too, because a cold pre-dawn start drains it faster than the same phone would drain at midday.